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Screen Printing for Texture and Depth

Techniques, trends, and tips for successfully printing puff, a fun specialty ink.

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IN THE EVER-EVOLVING landscape of garment decoration, one technique that continues to captivate both designers and consumers alike is puff ink printing. This innovative method adds texture and dimension to designs, elevating them from ordinary to extraordinary. In this article, we delve into the world of puff ink printing for T-shirts, exploring its techniques, trends, and providing valuable tips for those looking to incorporate this technique into their apparel designs.

Puff ink, also known as expanded ink or puff additive, is a special type of screen-printing ink that expands and puffs up when it is exposed to heat. This expansion creates a raised, three-dimensional effect on the printed surface, giving the design a tactile quality that stands out.

Screen Printing for Texture and Depth

For the Applications Lab design shown here, we chose to go with a tinted puff ink over-printed with a glitter ink. We used an orange shirt and an orange puff ink over-printed with a Crystalina glitter and a background of a super-soft black ink.

Techniques for Printing

Screen Printing: The most common method for applying puff ink to T-shirts is through screen printing. The process involves creating a stencil of the design on a fine mesh screen, through which the ink is pushed onto the fabric. After printing, the ink is cured using a heat source, causing it to puff up and create the desired effect.

Heat Transfer: Puff ink also can be applied using heat transfer techniques. In this method, the design first is printed onto a transfer paper using puff ink. The paper is then placed onto the T-shirt and heat pressed, causing the ink to expand and adhere to the fabric.

Screen Printing for Texture and Depth

Typography is a key element in T-shirt design, and puff ink offers a unique way to make text stand out. From vintage-inspired fonts to modern calligraphy, textured typography created with puff ink adds visual interest and depth to designs.

Trends in Puff Ink Printing

Retro Revival: Puff ink printing has seen a resurgence in popularity thanks to its nostalgic appeal. Designs reminiscent of 80’s and 90’s aesthetics, featuring bold colors and playful motifs, particularly are in demand.

Textured Typography: Typography is a key element in T-shirt design, and puff ink offers a unique way to make text stand out. From vintage-inspired fonts to modern calligraphy, textured typography created with puff ink adds visual interest and depth to designs.

Mixed Media: Puff ink printing often is combined with other embellishment techniques, such as foil printing or embroidery, to create eye-catching multimedia designs. This trend allows for endless creativity and customization options.

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Screen Printing for Texture and Depth

Puff ink works best on fabrics with a tight weave, such as cotton or polyester blends.

Tips for Successful Execution

Choose the Right Fabric: Puff ink works best on fabrics with a tight weave, such as cotton or polyester blends. Avoid using it on stretchy or textured fabrics, as the puff effect may be compromised.

Test Your Design: Before committing to a large run, it’s essential to test your design with puff ink to ensure the desired effect is achieved. Experiment with different ink colors, mesh counts, and curing times to fine-tune your process.

Pay Attention to Detail: Puff ink printing requires attention to detail, especially when creating intricate designs or fine lines. Make sure your screens are properly aligned, and the ink is applied evenly to avoid any smudging or blurring.
For the Applications Lab design shown in this article, we chose to go with a tinted puff ink over-printed with a glitter ink. Follow along as we get into the print parameters of how we executed this eye-catching print.

First, for this application we went with an orange shirt and decided on an orange puff ink over-printed with a Crystalina glitter and a background of a super-soft black ink.

The ink mixtures were:

  • Black Ink: Avient Infinite FX Nova Base 30% into Wilflex RIO Black
  • Puff Ink: Avient Infinite FX Nu-Puff Base with 8% Wilflex RIO RFU Bright Orange
  • Glitter Ink: Avient Infinite FX Crystalina

Here are the print parameters:

  • Print Head #1: Black Nova Base Ink; 230 mesh screen; single print stroke with 70/90/70 durometer squeegee
  • Print Head #2: Puff Ink Mix; 83 mesh with 200 micron stencil; 2 print strokes using 70 durometer squeegee
  • Flash
  • Print Head #10: Crystalina Ink; 40 mesh screen; single print stroke with 70 durometer squeegee
    Finally, run through dryer at 320 degrees.

Puff ink printing offers endless possibilities for adding texture and dimension to T-shirt designs. By mastering the techniques and staying attuned to current trends, designers and printers can create compelling garments that stand out in the marketplace. With a little creativity and experimentation, puff ink printing opens a world of new possibilities in the world of apparel decoration.

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Creating a More Diverse and Inclusive Screen Printing Industry

LET’S TALK About It: Part 3 discusses how four screen printers have employed people with disabilities, why you should consider doing the same, the resources that are available, and more. Watch the live webinar, held August 16, moderated by Adrienne Palmer, editor-in-chief, Screen Printing magazine, with panelists Ali Banholzer, Amber Massey, Ryan Moor, and Jed Seifert. The multi-part series is hosted exclusively by ROQ.US and U.N.I.T.E Together. Let’s Talk About It: Part 1 focused on Black, female screen printers and can be watched here; Part 2 focused on the LGBTQ+ community and can be watched here.

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